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The deck fence was built out of 2X2s screwed onto ripped 2X6s that made 2X3 runners or stringers. The cap was 2X6 redwood.
I used deck screws and predrilled the holes so as not split the wood. Cap was screwed into 4X4 post and the stringers. Stringers were hung on 4X4 post with the cheapest 2X3 metal clips. (Simpson A34, A35F, or TP15)
The deck had deteriorated over the last 70 years or so. The 4X4's were more than show, or the hold the hand rail. They were used also the replace the undercarriage of the deck.
a dark corner of the wooden deck - grid24_12
A deck fence rail - grid24_12
Here are the keepers for the rails of the deck. The vertical risers are screwed to the bottom and top runners. You lay it on it's side and put the bottom ones in first, then attach it and put the top on using the level on each riser. - grid24_12
Old deck fence. I really do not like to paint decks with anything like paint. - grid24_12
a dark corner of the wooden deck - grid24_12
Deck rail or fence made out of 2x2 redwood with a 2x6 cap. - grid24_12
attaching runners to post - grid24_12
crudely connecting the corners of the handrail - grid24_12
deck rails nailed into place, use finish nails or brads - grid24_12
You can use ringed nails, but the wood probably will split. Formal hand rail? You can buy some hardware at a hardware store that makes building a handrail easy.
attaching a handrail - grid24_12
putting back together a 80 year old deck rail. This is where the gate closes. - grid24_12
A handrail that was wobbly but worked - grid24_12
The nails by themselves fail and the handrail comes off.
Metal clips are usually - grid24_12
But with metal clips under it, it can't come off.


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Edited on Oct 24, 2018. Authors:
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